Flights to mainland Europe can be pricey, but Missoulians can try a little taste of French cafe culture by making a short trip to the new Dandelion Delicatessen in the not-so-remote neighborhood of Franklin to the Fort.
The cafe, which celebrates a grand opening on Bastille Day, Sunday, July 14, offers eclectic “grandma-core” vibes, as owner-chef Tara Emery puts it.
“I wanted to create a cool neighborhood spot,” she says. “As a kid at Hellgate High School I remember going to Freddy’s Feed and Read to hang out.”
The cafe’s seating space is small for Big Sky Country but appropriately sized for a hole-in-the-wall, European-inspired cozy spot to sip a cup of dark, strong Vivace espresso, or to pick up a cheese plate and some soup and set off for a picnic.
Emery bought the building, which recently operated as the Moonlight Kitchens commissary, in 2021. She quietly opened Dandelion to the public in May of this year with a limited menu, giving her time to work on recipes and hire staff. Dandelion will expand hours and offer a full menu after the Bastille Day party.
When it fully opens next week, Dandelion will offer a rotating menu of soups, quiches, baked goods, sandwiches and salads that incorporate local produce and imported cheese and butter. They’ll also pack to-go boxes of quality imported charcuterie and cheese. She relishes the French commitment to butter and heavy cream, and will also serve vegetarian and gluten-free options such as ratatouille. The decor features a mix of thrifted pieces and local art, including an Andy Smetanka custom papercut of dandelions that’s placed into the transom window at the front door for a stained-glass effect.
Emery and her new cook, James Bramlett, are both trained in classic French techniques. Bramlett is originally from Alabama and brings an extensive cheffy resume, including time cooking in France, Italy, and throughout the U.S., notably at Highlands Bar and Grill, a James Beard Foundation Award-winning restaurant in Birmingham, Alabama.
At Dandelion, he’s excited about cooking from scratch using local ingredients, such as fresh basil and beef bones. He’s working closely with Emery.
“It was cool to meet somebody locally that had a similar passion for food and wanted to do that kinda style that I’m used to,” Bramlett says.
It’s been a winding journey to the restaurant industry for Emery, who spent most of her early career as a bartender and event promoter at clubs such as The Badlander, The Palace (RIP), The Other Side (RIP), and The Loft (also RIP).
She also founded the Musicare Montana nonprofit and the DAT Music Conference. But the nightlife started getting old, and she decided to pivot into food, graduating from culinary school in 2019.
“I used to go to bed at 4 a.m., and now I get up at 4 a.m.,” she says.
In 2021, she and her husband, Chris Henry, purchased the Moonlight Kitchens building while she launched her small catering business. (Incidentally, the kitchen is still available as a commissary if she finds the right business to share the space.)
Emery visited France last year for a culinary retreat and took away a renewed appreciation for quality and attention to detail, which she hopes comes across to customers.
“It was very much me looking at the space and thinking, ‘What’s going to work in here? What’s going to be fun and different?’” she says. “I’m just viewing everything as experimentation. And if you’re not failing, you’re really not trying hard enough, in my mind.”
Dandelion Delicatessen—1951 Kensington Avenue, Suite 2—celebrates its grand opening on Sunday, July 14, beginning at 5 p.m. The event includes deejaying by Kris Moon and Chris Henry, a visit from the Lemondairy truck, and a cookout. Check Dandelion’s website and social media for updates on operating hours and menu items.
